Life in Rajasthan

Its been exactly three weeks in Udaipur, and honestly, it's hard to describe this place I find myself in. Words and pictures on a screen simply don't do justice to the sights, sounds, smells, emotions, and organized chaos that is India. Everything here - the people, the language, the food, the religion, the daily pace and outlook on life, is so... well... alien to me.

Yes, that's to be expected when you plop yourself halfway across the world in a completely foreign culture. Still, there's this mysterious quality about life over here which I can't quite put my finger on yet. No doubt it has to do with conventional 'East' vs. 'West' ideological differences. Or maybe it has to do with Udaipur's existence largely outside the subtle forces which influence, if not subconsciously dictate, our daily lives in the West; the profit motive, mass media, consumerism... fast food chains.

One thing is for sure, this place emanates culture. REAL culture. Like cover of National Geographic magazine culture. None of this whitewashed, neo-colonial, corporate pseudo-culture that I saw all too often in my Pacific Rim travels earlier this summer. However, like the emerging economies of East Asia, the kids here are all about the West when it comes to modern clothes and technology and pop culture etc. I heard Justin Bieber on the radio the other day. Alas, it seems globalization is inevitable.

For those of you who don't already know, I'm volunteering/interning with an organization called Development Action Awareness Nationwide, a grassroots Non-Governmental Organization (NGO) based in Udaipur, India. I've had the pleasure to work and live with Dr. Samvit Audichya, the founder and director of the D.A.A.N. Foundation ("daan" has a similar meaning to "charity" in the Hindu religion) (www.daanfoundation.org).


We have been working in the tribal villages on the outskirts of Udaipur for the past three weeks. Weekday mornings are centered around educating village families about various health awareness issues. We have been collecting data by interviewing the families about their health, nutrition, and sanitation routines. Then we provide precautionary advice or basic medicines to them.

Our primary village: Hawala Khurd


This has been quite the experience, with most of the population not even understanding what the word "precautionary" means, let alone the importance of washing ones hands. When asked what his family does when they get sick, a bearded old patriarch, decked out in his traditional turban and cloth wrap, responded "we go to a special tree that heals you when the wind blows." Its times like these that 1. make me second guess which century I am living in, and 2. remind me of the rich and mysterious tribal traditions which I am witnessing on a daily basis. I'm not usually one to press my beliefs, values, or culture on anyone, but in the case of fundamental health awareness, it seems like a worthwhile cause.

Hawala Khurd Tribal Rain/Harvest Dance, "Gauri" Celebration


Bedgoan Village School


We build relationships with the kids, who introduce us to their families


As we walk door-to-door, we are always welcomed into these meager village homes with such genuine hospitality, and almost always, a warm cup of chai. Here you can see Sam and Sanjay (our Youth Center helper) in action at a Hawala Khurd home.


In the afternoons we have been running an Education and Awareness Center for Youth in Hawala Khurd Village.


Playing Carrom, a sort of "mini-billiards" game played here in India


In addition to homework help, English lessons, and games/activities, we have been busy securing resource materials and basic decorations for the place. EVERYTHING we do is funded through private donors so we have also been trying to do some ad-hoc fund raising (if you're interested in helping, let me know!). With financial backing, we hope to open up another Youth Center in Bedgon Village and eventually extend the use of the Hawala Center to marginalized women as well (I will have to write about the gender issues here later on).


The kids and I at the site of our proposed Bedgon Village Youth Center


We also met with UNICEF last week and struck up a collaboration in which we will be distributing anemia pills and educating adolescent girls about the dangers of iron-deficient diets.
According to UNICEF, a staggering 94% of adolescent girls in Rajasthan (this province of India) are anemic. Vegeterianism plays a major role in this statistic but so does the male gender bias when it comes to who gets the best food at mealtime.




The weekends have been full of mini-adventures to nearby attractions. The first weekend Sam and I biked up to Ecklingji, 22km North of Udaipur. Here, I got to experience a Hindu service at an ancient temple which was built in 734 A.D. and dedicated to Lord Shiva - member of the Hindu trinity and the (ego) destroyer and restorer of the world.

Hindus waiting outside Ecklingji Temple (pictures weren't allowed inside)


The next weekend Sam and I took a day trip up a mountainous pass to Jhadol, where we had the privilege of visiting "Jhadol Safari Resort", a tourist place under construction and owned by the prince of one of the royal families of Rajasthan. Nothing beats the scenery and sense of adventure that comes with a motorcycle ride up a windy dirt road to the middle of nowhere.


This past weekend I took a two day solo trip to Mount Abu, a quaint local tourist town atop the highest peak in the Aravalli Range of Rajasthan. After a indescribable public bus journey to the mountain station, I trekked it out to Sunset Point to see the sun go down over Western India (and possibly Eastern Pakistan).


Abu?


"Sunset Point", Mt. Abu, Rajasthan


Nakki Lake, Mt. Abu


"Honeymoon Point", Mt. Abu


Typical street in Mt. Abu


Also blessing Mt. Abu, are the Delwara Temples, which are a mecca for Jain pilgrims from all over India. These temples were built in the 11th and 13th centuries and exhibit the most exquisite white marble carvings I've ever laid eyes on (some experts consider Delwara architecturally superior to the Taj Mahal). Each one of the five temples are dedicated to a specific Tirthankar, a historical being who has achieved enlightenment and has started a new order of enlightenment seekers. Sadly, photos were not permitted again, so here's a photo I stole from online:



I will admit that adjusting to the culture here is a continuous but worthwhile battle. Sometimes it is all a bit overwhelming; I find myself hankering for a nice steak dinner or a familiar face to talk to in English. But it's nothing I can't remedy with little bit of Jessup jerky and a good ol' Skype session. So if you're in the virtual area, hit me up, I'd love to hear from you (username jjessup2).

Thank you all for your continued prayers and support, and I hope you are all finding the time to stop, meditate, and listen to God's magnificent beauty which encompasses this Earth...
from India to America,

from East...


to West

शांति,
Johnny